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Sri Lanka Trip Report 

January 20 - February 3, 2017

Pheasant-tailed Jacana at Pelvehera Tank, Habarana (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Pheasant-tailed Jacana at Pelvehera Tank, Habarana  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

Day 1 (20/1) First birds we saw just on sunrise were hundreds of House Crows flying over, and a few Cattle Egret in the woodland across the road. Nishantha (our driver) and Upali (our guide*) arrived to pick us up at 9am, and after traditional Sri Lankan spring hoppers for breakfast, we proceeded towards Habarana. We stopped at Pelvehera Tank (Tank is a man-made small lake) where we saw our first Pheasant-tailed Jacanas and other waterbirds.

Cabin at The Other Corner (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Cabin at The Other Corner  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

Soon after we pulled up at ‘The Other Corner’ (TOC) which is a resort at Habarana, were treated to a lovely ‘Ayubowan’ greeting, and settled into our room. After lunch we explored the grounds and then went up to the bund wall that borders Habarana Lake. Some of the birds we saw were Orange-headed Thrush, Indian Pitta, Purple-rumped Sunbird, Indian Roller and an immature Shikra.

Mike, Jenny with Shyami and Rahula, owners of TOC and Starron Tours (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Mike, Jenny with Shyami and Rahula, owners of TOC and Starron Tours  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

62 bird species today

Upali and I explored the bund wall alongside Habarana Lake, then we had a spicy Sri Lankan breakfast. Next we went to Sigiriya and walked the roads and track around the moat. Saw Drongo Cuckoo, Grey-bellied Cuckoo, White-throated and Stork-billed Kingfishers, Black-hooded Oriole, Shikra (a kind of goshawk), Hanuman Langur Monkey, Land and Water Monitors.

White-throated Kingfisher at Sigiriya (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
White-throated Kingfisher at Sigiriya  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

Upali gave me an overview of the use of Sigiriya Rock as a fort and palace for the renegade prince Kashyapa, who murdered his father and seized the kingship, reigning from 477 to 495 CE.  This is fascinating history and worth the extra time to climb the rock and see the paintings. As our focus was birdlife we declined the opportunity this time.

Sigiriya Rock (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Sigiriya Rock  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

After lunch and afternoon siesta, back at TOC, Upali and I explored the bund wall again, and added several more species to the list including Baya Weaver, Malabar Pied Hornbill, White-rumped Shama, Paradise Flycatcher and a delightful group of four Tawny-bellied Babblers fidgeting as they settled down to roost for the night.

78 bird species today

Stork-billed Kingfisher at Sigiriya (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Stork-billed Kingfisher at Sigiriya  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

Day 3 (22/1)

This morning we packed up and left for Kandy straight after breakfast. Despite rain on and off through the morning, we saw some birds along the way. A rice paddy yielded Little Ringed Plover and Wood Sandpiper, and at Kandalama Lake we saw Spot-billed Pelican and Grey Heron. Then we continued on to Kandy, where we had lunch overlooking the lake and the ‘Temple of the Tooth Relic’. 

Jenny, Rahul, Upali, Kishan and Thilini at Kitulgala (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Jenny, Rahul, Upali, Kishan and Thilini at Kitulgala  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

After lunch we checked in to the lovely old, but well maintained, Suisse Hotel and then Upali and I searched for birds around the grounds and at the lake. We had close views of Black-crowned Night Heron, Indian and Little Cormorants and a Great Egret in the peak of breeding flush. We also visited the Royal Botanical Garden, Peradeniya. This magnificent garden holds a good amount of birdlife.

41 bird species today

Day 4 (23/1)

Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill in the gardens at Kitulgala Rest House (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)
Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill in the gardens at Kitulgala Rest House  (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)

We checked out after a lovely buffet breakfast and visited the nearby Udawattakele Sanctuary.  On the way to Kitulgala, Upali spotted a Crested Serpent Eagle near a roadside tea shop, and we pulled over. Here we saw the eagle, as well as Common Tailorbird, Scarlet Minivet, Common Hill Myna and Sri Lankan Hill Myna. We had a cup of tea here before moving on. We arrived at Kitulgala for a late lunch, shared with our friends Kishan, Rahul and Thilini, from Darwin.

Male Layard's Parakeet in gardens at Kitulgala Rest House (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)
Male Layard's Parakeet in gardens at Kitulgala Rest House  (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)

After lunch we birded around the grounds and had great views of Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill, Layard’s Parakeet and Lesser Goldenback (Woodpecker). We also went to a villager’s garden where a Chestnut-backed Owlet has its nest, but we didn’t see it, however, we did have great views of a Giant Squirrel.

61 bird species today

Day 5 (24/1)

The beautiful Kelani River in Kitulgala Forest. The Bridge on the River Kwai was filmed near here. (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)
The beautiful Kelani River in Kitulgala Forest. The Bridge on the River Kwai was filmed near here.  (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)

When I got up at first light Upali and Kishan already had the scope on a Chestnut-backed Owlet, calling from the forest alongside the back lawn area of our hotel. We had great views but couldn’t get a good photo.

Purple-rumped Sunbird, common throughout most of Sri Lanka (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)
Purple-rumped Sunbird, common throughout most of Sri Lanka  (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)

After breakfast we hired a small raft to cross the river to explore the beautiful Kitulgala Forest. We walked through a village and on up into the forest. We didn’t see a lot of birds but did have good views of a Black Eagle soaring, Pale-billed Flowerpecker and a Spot-winged Thrush foraging.

53 bird species today

Day 6 (25/1)

Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot feeding on a Jackfruit at the Blue Magpie Lodge, Kitulgala (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)
Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot feeding on a Jackfruit at the Blue Magpie Lodge, Kitulgala  (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)
We arrived at our accommodation at the Blue Magpie Lodge and saw a good variety of birds around the grounds including Black Bulbul, Sri Lankan Hanging Parrot and Plum-headed Parakeet. Late in the afternoon we drive up to the ticketing office at Sinharaja Rainforest and had great views of the Sri Lankan Blue Magpie, Orange-billed Babblers, Layard’s Striped Squirrel and a pair of Otters!

Sri Lanka Blue Magpie on Upali's spotting scope, at Kitulgala Forest (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)
Sri Lanka Blue Magpie on Upali's spotting scope, at Kitulgala Forest  (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)

58 bird species today

Day 7 (26/1)

We went early by jeep up to the Sinharaja Rainforest. Upali has a friendship with a family who have the elusive and endemic Sri Lankan Spurfowl come to their house. We were invited to go inside and wait at the kitchen/dining room window and eventually a pair of Spurfowl came to the back of the house and we had great views.

Sri Lanka Spurfowl (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)
Sri Lanka Spurfowl  (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)

Also we saw and photographed Green-billed Coucal and the spectacular Red-faced Malkoha. We walked along the road through a mixture of tea plantations and forest and saw a Philippine Shrike, Indian Pitta, Crested Hawk Eagle and other birds. 

 

Kishan, Rahul, Thilini, Jenny, Mike, Upali and Nishantha at Sinharaja (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Kishan, Rahul, Thilini, Jenny, Mike, Upali and Nishantha at Sinharaja  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
At the end of the days birding Kishan, Thilini and Rahul went back to Colombo, it was great to share four days of our tour with them.

 

Day 8 (27/1)

Sri Lanka Junglefowl, widespread throughout Sri Lanka (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)
Sri Lanka Junglefowl, widespread throughout Sri Lanka  (photo copyright Dr Kishan Pandithage)

This morning Upali and I went by jeep before sunrise up to Sinharaja Rainforest and walked a different section of it. The most amazing sighting was a tiny Sri Lanka Frogmouth, not far off the track but well hidden in the jungle. Though it rained heavily for most of the morning, we managed to see some great birds including Malabar Trogan, Red-faced Malkoha, White-faced Starling and Dark-fronted Babbler. We also saw a troop of Purple-faced Leaf Monkeys. The endemic Sri Lanka Junglefowl was here too.

41 bird species today

Day 9 (28/1)

Collared Scops Owl (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Collared Scops Owl  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

After breakfast and check out from the Blue Magpie Lodge, we started the three hour drive to Udawalawe. This area is famous for its elephants and there is an Elephant Orphanage in the town which focuses on rehabilitation of orphaned baby elephants.

 

Marshall's Iora (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Marshall's Iora   (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

At the orphanage, we were not only treated to the sight of young elephants of various ages coming to be fed, but a pair of Collared Scops Owls were in their day roost in a large tree on the compound.

After lunch and check in to our room at the Grand Udawalawe, Upali and I went to the Udawalawe National Park for a jeep safari.  

Orange-breasted Green Pigeon (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Orange-breasted Green Pigeon  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

We saw plenty of Asian Elephants, some Golden Jackal, and Mugger Crocodiles. Birds included Spot-billed Pelican, Painted Stork, Montagu’s Harrier, Barred Button-quail, Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, Jerdon’s Bushlark, Marshall’s Iora and Rosy Starling.

68 bird species today

Day 10 (29/1)

Black Bittern (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Black Bittern  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

We checked out of our hotel and did another jeep safari at Uda Walawe National Park. After great views of many of the same species plus some more like Black-winged Kite and Blue-faced Malkoha, we continued on to Tissamaharama. We stopped at a tank near Tissa and were surprised to see a White Wagtail in the grassy area, with various other wetland birds.

Jungle Owlet (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Jungle Owlet  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

After checking in to the Hibiscus Garden Hotel we went to a nearby wetland and saw Black Bittern, Yellow Bittern, Spoonbill, Watercock, Common Moorhen and Common Coot. A young birdwatcher who knows Upali told us about a Brown Fish Owl nearby, so we followed him to the spot and there it was! There was also a pair of Malabar Pied Hornbills in another large tree nearby. From there we went to yet another local friend of Upali’s and he has a Jungle Owlet roost in his garden. Unfortunately, it was not there when we went but we saw a pair of brooding White-naped Woodpeckers change over at the nest. The nest is a small hollow in a coconut palm trunk. There were several hollows in the coconut trees here and some had Rose-ringed Parrots in them.

88 bird species today

Day 11 (30/1)

Brown-headed Barbet (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Brown-headed Barbet  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

Today we had a rest for the first part of the day. In the afternoon we went back to Upali’s friends place and this time we saw the Jungle Owlet. We also had great views of Brown-headed Barbet and Asian Paradise Flycatcher.

56 bird species today

Day 12 (31/1)


Malabar Pied Hornbill (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
 Malabar Pied Hornbill  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

We left early for a full day jeep safari at Yala National Park. First exciting event was a traffic jam where jeeps were crowded around the scene of a Reticulated Python devouring a deer. We continued on, all the time alert for signs of our number one target – Leopard!

Spotted Deer (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Spotted Deer  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

We saw Grey Langur Monkeys and had confrontations with Toque Monkeys at lunch time. Also we saw several Ruddy Mongoose, Spotted Deer, Wild Boar and Water Buffalo. Unfortunately we dipped on leopard but did see some tracks.

 

Chestnut-headed Bee-eater (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Chestnut-headed Bee-eater  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
We checked out a small wetland close to the shore where we saw Spotted Redshank and Common Redshank. There was the intriguing sight of elephant footprints through the shallow tidal inlet where the shorebirds were. Bird sightings included great views of Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, Brahminy Starlings, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Malabar Pied Hornbill and Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark.

82 bird species today

Day 13 (1/2)

Asian Elephants at Uda Walawe National Park (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Asian Elephants at Uda Walawe National Park  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

We checked out early from the Hibiscus Garden Hotel and went to Bundala National Park, a small park on the coast and to the south west of Yala. In 1991 Bundala became the first area to be declared a Ramsar site in Sri Lanka. Here we had great views of shorebirds from a wetland viewing platform at the entrance to the park. Then we had the treat of seeing nine Greater Flamingos flying overhead. Amongst the dozens of Barn Swallows Upali pointed out two Sand Martins. We saw Collared Dove, Yellow Bittern, Richard’s Pipit, Paddyfield Pipit and Jerdon’s Leaf Warbler. There are salt pans used for salt production and from the bund walls we saw Oriental Skylark, Small Pratincole and Pied Kingfisher. Mammals at Bundala included Asian Elephant, Grey Langur and Toque Monkey.

Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

From there we left sea level and climbed to Nuwara Eliya which is at 1868m. After lunch at the Ceybank Rest, Upali and I searched for birds in the nearby Victoriya Park gardens. At the gardens, we saw Forest Wagtail, Sri Lanka White-eye and had fantastic views of an Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher.

109 bird species today

Day 14 (2/2)

Rufous-bellied Eagle (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Rufous-bellied Eagle  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

We left well before dawn for Horton Plains. This is a plateau, 2100-2300m high and home to many unique bird species, fantastic scenery, and is very cold! We saw Indian Blackbird, Whistling Thrush, Great Tit (SL subspecies) Dusky Blue Flycatcher, Wood Pigeon, Yellow-eared Bulbul, Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, and Sri Lanka Bush Warbler. Mammal species included Flame-backed Squirrel and Samba Deer. On our way back to Nuwara Eliya we stopped at a tea room for refreshments and saw a Rufous-bellied Eagle soaring overhead.

After lunch Upali and I went back to the gardens and saw Pied Thrush and Kashmir Flycatcher. We then went to another forest nearby where we had good views of Indian Blue Robin, Indian Black Bird, Dull Blue Flycatcher, Great Tit and Yellow-eared Bulbul. We also saw a Giant Squirrel.

37 bird species today

Day 15 (3/2)

Mike, Jenny and guide at the Tea Factory (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Mike, Jenny and guide at the Tea Factory  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)

Today is the last day of our tour and we started off with a latish 7.30am breakfast, checked out of our hotel and began the spectacular scenic descent from Nuwara Eliya to Kandy. We stopped at a location near a tunnel where we saw Velvet-fronted Nuthatch and further along we did a tour of a tea factory. The highlight here, in addition to the factory tour, was our only sighting of Hill Swallow. Hill Swallow is reliable at this tea factory and the reason Upali suggested this stop.

Today we 14 bird species today

We saw a total of 225 bird and 17 mammal species over the 15 days

Mike, Jenny and Upali on tour in Sri Lanka (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
Mike, Jenny and Upali on tour in Sri Lanka  (photo copyright Mike Jarvis)
*BIO-Upali Ekanayake worked as a research officer for the Department of Zoology of the University of Peradeniya for some 30 years and trained further in terrestrial ecology and conservation, with special emphasis on birds, at the universities of Cambridge and Aberdeen, UK. Upali has carried out avifaunal and biodiversity surveys in various protected areas on the island and has written many scientific research papers. Upali has been leading bird tours since 1992, and has a comprehensive knowledge of Sri Lanka’s birds, mammals, butterflies and plants. He has been involved in training and assisting many up and coming bird guides in Sri Lanka, passing on his field skills, enthusiasm for avi-tourism, and passion for preserving the Sri Lankan environment. Jenny and I felt honoured to be shown Sri Lanka and its wildlife by him.

We dropped Upali off near his home at Kandy and Nishantha, our driver, took us to our accommodation at the Kingsbury in Colombo.


 

Experience the Wild Sri Lanka 2018 Itinerary

 

Species seen here on 2017 Trip

Birds ( 225 ) 

Sri Lanka Spurfowl

Sri Lanka Junglefowl

Indian Peafowl 

Barred Buttonquail

Lesser Whistling Duck  

Cotton Pygmy Goose 

Greater Flamingo 

Painted Stork 

Asian Openbill 

Woolly-necked Stork 

Glossy Ibis 

Black-headed Ibis  

Eurasian Spoonbill 

Little Egret 

Great Egret 

Intermediate Egret 

Grey Heron 

Purple Heron 

Cattle Egret

Indian Pond Heron 

Black-crowned Night Heron  

Yellow Bittern 

Black Bittern 

Red-billed Tropicbird 

Spot-billed Pelican 

Little Grebe 

Little Cormorant 

Indian Cormorant 

Great Cormorant 

Oriental Darter 

Oriental Honey Buzzard 

Black-winged Kite

Brahminy Kite 

White-bellied Sea Eagle 

Grey-headed Fishing Eagle 

Crested Serpent Eagle  

Montagu's Harrier 

Shikra  

Black Eagle  

Rufous-bellied Eagle      

Crested Hawk-Eagle 

White-breasted Waterhen  

Watercock 

Purple Swamphen

Common Moorhen 

Eurasian Coot

Pheasant-tailed Jacana 

Indian Thick-knee

Great Thick-knee 

Eurasian Oystercatcher

Black-winged Stilt 

Pacific Golden Plover 

Grey Plover

Little Ringed Plover 

Kentish Plover 

Lesser Sand Plover

Greater Sand Plover

Yellow-wattled Lapwing 

Red-wattled Lapwing  

Pintail Snipe  

Black-tailed Godwit

Bar-tailed Godwit 

Whimbrel 

Eurasian Curlew 

Spotted Redshank 

Common Redshank

Common Greenshank

Marsh Sandpiper 

Green Sandpiper 

Wood Sandpiper 

Common Sandpiper 

Ruddy Turnstone 

Little Stint  

Curlew Sandpiper  

Small Pratincole  

Gull-billed Tern 

Caspian Tern 

Lesser Crested Tern

Greater Crested Tern

Little Tern  

Whiskered Tern  

Rock Pigeon 

Sri Lanka Wood Pigeon

Spotted Dove 

Eurasian Collared Dove 

Emerald Dove 

Orange-breasted Green Pigeon 

Sri Lanka Green Pigeon

Green Imperial Pigeon 

Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot

Alexandrine Parakeet 

Rose-ringed Parakeet 

Plum-headed Parakeet

Layard's Parakeet 

Green-billed Coucal 

Greater Coucal

Red-faced Malkoha 

Blue-faced Malkoha  

Asian Koel

Grey-bellied Cuckoo

Drongo-Cuckoo 

Collared Scops Owl 

Jungle Owlet 

Chestnut-backed Owlet 

Sri Lanka Frogmouth   

Indian Swiftlet

Asian Palm Swift

House Swift

Crested Tree Swift

Common Kingfisher 

Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher  

Stork-billed Kingfisher 

White-throated Kingfisher 

Pied Kingfisher

Green Bee-eater

Blue-tailed Bee-eater 

Chestnut-headed Bee-eater 

Indian Roller 

Dollarbird

Malabar Trogon

Brown-headed Barbet

Yellow-fronted Barbet 

Crimson-fronted Barbet

Coppersmith Barbet

Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill  

Malabar Pied Hornbill 

Lesser Yellownape

Lesser Goldenback

Crimson-backed Goldenback

White-naped Woodpecker

Indian Pitta 

Black-headed Cuckoo-Shrike

Scarlet Minivet

Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike

Sri Lanka Wood Shrike

Brown Shrike 

Philippine Shrike

Common Iora 

Marshall’s Iora 

Gold-fronted Leafbird

Jerdon's Leafbird

Black-naped Oriole 

Black-hooded Oriole

Sri Lanka Blue Magpie 

House Crow 

Large-billed Crow

Sand Martin

Barn Swallow

Hill Swallow  

Red-rumped Swallow 

Sri Lanka Swallow

White-bellied Drongo 

White-vented Drongo

Sri Lanka Crested Drongo

Forest Wagtail 

White Wagtail

Yellow Wagtail 

Grey Wagtail

Richard's Pipit 

Paddyfield Pipit

Blyth's Pipit 

Jerdon’s Bushlark 

Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark

Oriental Skylark

Black-capped Bulbul

Red-vented Bulbul 

Yellow-eared Bulbul 

White-browed Bulbul 

Yellow-browed Bulbul 

Black Bulbul

Zitting Cisticola

Grey-breasted Prinia

Ashy Prinia 

Jungle Prinia

Plain Prinia

Common Tailorbird 

Sri Lanka Bush Warbler

Blyth’s Reed Warbler

Clamorous Reed Warbler 

Green Warbler

Large-billed Leaf Warbler 

White-browed Fantail

Asian Paradise Flycatcher

Black-naped Monarch

Ashy-headed Laughing Thrush 

Brown-capped Babbler 

Sri Lanka Scimitar Babbler  

Tawny-bellied Babbler

Dark-fronted Babbler

Yellow-eyed Babbler

Orange-billed Babbler

Yellow-billed Babbler

White-faced Starling

Brahminy Starling

Rosy Starling 

Common Myna 

Sri Lanka Hill Myna  

Lesser Hill Myna

Pied Thrush 

Orange-headed Thrush 

Spot-winged Thrush

Indian Blackbird  

Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush

Asian Brown Flycatcher

Brown-breasted Flycatcher

Yellow-rumped Flycatcher 

Kashmir Flycatcher 

Dull-blue Flycatcher

Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher 

Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher

Indian Blue Robin

Oriental Magpie-Robin

White-rumped Shama 

Indian Robin

Pied Bushchat

Thick-billed Flowerpecker 

Legge’s Flowerpecker

Pale-billed Flowerpecker

Purple-rumped Sunbird 

Purple Sunbird 

Loten’s Sunbird

Sri Lanka White-eye

Oriental White-eye 

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch 

Asian Grey Tit

Streaked Weaver

Baya Weaver 

House Sparrow

White-rumped Munia

Black-throated Munia

Scaly-breasted Munia

Black-headed Munia

 

 

Mammals ( 17 )

Asian Elephant

Ruddy Mongoose

Golden Jackal

Spotted Deer

Sambar

Barking Deer

Indian Palm Squirrel

Sri Lanka Giant Squirrel

Layard's Squirrel

Flame-backed Squirrel

Wild Boar

Toque Monkey

Purple-faced Leaf Monkey

Hanuman Grey Langur

Indian Flying Fox

Otter

Water Buffalo

Reptiles ( 5 )

Mugger Crocodile

 

 

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